People are bad at lots of things. Safety included. Priorities get crooked, and mostly folks just plain aren't educated in how to stay alive. Climbing is a shining example of the "safety third" mentality. The moral of the story is to get out there and find someone who can tell you how to do it all without getting hurt hurt or dying. Also, even if you've done it a thousand times, be careful. A fraction of a second of distraction is all too often fatal. Look at the big picture, and listen to your gut. If it looks icky, it's wrong.

Feed the fire! Photos, comments, questions, or ponderings? Fire 'em off to janketyassanchors@gmail.com

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Monday, February 8, 2010

Here, let's just make this look silly

 
It's SRENE, so it's safe, right??  WRONG.  Dyneema to dyneema is known for breaking itself.  At least they didn't girth hitch it, which is known to fail under top-rope weight.  

Here's a few safer options:
  • A longer runner or cordalette to eliminate the need to extend the system
  • Two locking carabiners connecting the dyneema to dyneema
  • Using one double length cord for each piece, tying an overhand or eight on a bight at the end and clipping both runners as the master point

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