People are bad at lots of things. Safety included. Priorities get crooked, and mostly folks just plain aren't educated in how to stay alive. Climbing is a shining example of the "safety third" mentality. The moral of the story is to get out there and find someone who can tell you how to do it all without getting hurt hurt or dying. Also, even if you've done it a thousand times, be careful. A fraction of a second of distraction is all too often fatal. Look at the big picture, and listen to your gut. If it looks icky, it's wrong.

Feed the fire! Photos, comments, questions, or ponderings? Fire 'em off to janketyassanchors@gmail.com

Some photos are too small to show proper detail. Click to zoom.

Monday, January 10, 2011

2011 looks so promising!

Let it begin!  Here are the first for the year.


 What do we have here? A top rope running through two lockers, opposite and opposed, connected to a single strand of 6mm cordalette.  And on the other side of that overhand, the cord is connected to two separate and solid bolts.  Yet the whole system depends on the single strand.


 Redundant and equalized, yes, but if you're going to take slack out of a system, don't use a slipknot.  What part of that makes any sense?


Here's a double eared figure 8, but the loop isn't clipped in.  It's not the regular two eared eight, but instead a double figure eight on a bight.  Just like if it's tied with an overhand instead of an eight, that loop needs to be clipped in with the rest of it to close the system.


This is just the beginning, and there's more to follow. These anchors are just from the first day climbing here at the ice park in Ouray. Lots more on the way!

2 comments:

  1. I'm so happy that JANKETY-ASS ANCHORS is back!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Super duper...glad to see your return.! Triple exclamation mark..

    ReplyDelete