People are bad at lots of things. Safety included. Priorities get crooked, and mostly folks just plain aren't educated in how to stay alive. Climbing is a shining example of the "safety third" mentality. The moral of the story is to get out there and find someone who can tell you how to do it all without getting hurt hurt or dying. Also, even if you've done it a thousand times, be careful. A fraction of a second of distraction is all too often fatal. Look at the big picture, and listen to your gut. If it looks icky, it's wrong.

Feed the fire! Photos, comments, questions, or ponderings? Fire 'em off to janketyassanchors@gmail.com

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Friday, January 20, 2012

More already!


 Quilted together slings, and un-equalized sides of the anchor. Also, they clipped the tail loop of their double-overhand-on-a-bight instead of the load side of the knot.

 Disregarding the purple cord, here is a clear example of the "Death Triangle".  While it makes use of two bolts, it does not use them independently, if one side of the orange cord were to fail, the whole cord would.  Here's a link to all the details: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle






 Here we've got a microwave sized detached block used as a directional, which doesn't re-direct the rope.  While failing its intended purpose, it endangers climbers, belayers, and innocent bystanders, hanging precariously, murderously, 20m off the ground.




Non redundant. Also, if you girth hitch a tree or other form of natural protection, align the hitch so that the load strand is not bent to reduce friction.

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