People are bad at lots of things. Safety included. Priorities get crooked, and mostly folks just plain aren't educated in how to stay alive. Climbing is a shining example of the "safety third" mentality. The moral of the story is to get out there and find someone who can tell you how to do it all without getting hurt hurt or dying. Also, even if you've done it a thousand times, be careful. A fraction of a second of distraction is all too often fatal. Look at the big picture, and listen to your gut. If it looks icky, it's wrong.

Feed the fire! Photos, comments, questions, or ponderings? Fire 'em off to janketyassanchors@gmail.com

Some photos are too small to show proper detail. Click to zoom.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Solid pro?  (new bolts) Yes.
Redundant?  Check.
Equalized?  Yup.
No-extension, even if a piece failed?  Correct.

What's wrong then, you ask!   This is a SRENE anchor!  Those lockers are even opposite and opposed!

First of all, the business end of the anchor is a CF.  I think they tried to tie a double-overhand-on-a-bight, which is a great knot for top-roping.  It didn't work though.  The knot isn't dressed and webbing is tangled in the carabiners. Anything worth doing is worth doing well, and if you can't properly tie the knot that keeps your ass off the deck, you should probably take a rest day and go get some education.

Secondly, don't run a top-rope like a saw over something that could fall and kill you.  At the point that this picture was taken, they had sawed through about a quarter of the top chunk of ice that happened to be perched 30 meters above their belay. 



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