Well in case it sounded like a good idea, dyneema through nylon rubbing over metal as an un-redundant top rope anchor is a bad idea. First of all, anchors MUST be redundant. Every time. All the time. An exception from this rule is a roll of the dice. Dyneema and nylon aren't buddies. Carabiners at each side of any flacid, wily loop will generally keep a system in line, but with their evil forces combined, dyneema and nylon, dyneema and dyneema, nyon and nylon are a bad bunch. Nylon won't melt a carabiner. Neither will dyneema. Nylon will melt nylon, though, dyneema will melt nylon, and dyneema on dyneema will impinge and then cut itself. All could have been solved however by making a redundant anchor with "metal to nylon, and nylon to metal".
Monday, January 18, 2010
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