People are bad at lots of things. Safety included. Priorities get crooked, and mostly folks just plain aren't educated in how to stay alive. Climbing is a shining example of the "safety third" mentality. The moral of the story is to get out there and find someone who can tell you how to do it all without getting hurt hurt or dying. Also, even if you've done it a thousand times, be careful. A fraction of a second of distraction is all too often fatal. Look at the big picture, and listen to your gut. If it looks icky, it's wrong.

Feed the fire! Photos, comments, questions, or ponderings? Fire 'em off to janketyassanchors@gmail.com

Some photos are too small to show proper detail. Click to zoom.

Monday, January 18, 2010

So, so close

These folks were headed in the right direction.  I've got two points to pick on this anchor.

The knot at their power-point is a double-overhand-on-a-bight, otherwise known as the "doob". It's a great knot, redundant at every point if executed correctly. The only step that's missing in this photo is that the loose loop hanging close to the biners needs to be clipped in too.  Otherwise, you have a similar potential as if you had clipped into the "shelf" of an equalized anchor without anything in the power-point. One more point on that is that the tail-loop of the doob needs to be long enough that when clipped in, it isn't weighted by the system.  It might as well be fairly snug, though.  You don't want a sloppy knot.

The second point of contention of this anchor is the orientation of the two locking carabiners. Ideally, they would be opposite and opposed, with both gates locked towards the force of gravity, and their gates facing opposite directions.


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