These folks were headed in the right direction. I've got two points to pick on this anchor.
The knot at their power-point is a double-overhand-on-a-bight, otherwise known as the "doob". It's a great knot, redundant at every point if executed correctly. The only step that's missing in this photo is that the loose loop hanging close to the biners needs to be clipped in too. Otherwise, you have a similar potential as if you had clipped into the "shelf" of an equalized anchor without anything in the power-point. One more point on that is that the tail-loop of the doob needs to be long enough that when clipped in, it isn't weighted by the system. It might as well be fairly snug, though. You don't want a sloppy knot.
The second point of contention of this anchor is the orientation of the two locking carabiners. Ideally, they would be opposite and opposed, with both gates locked towards the force of gravity, and their gates facing opposite directions.
Monday, January 18, 2010
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