I'll take that back, this anchor isn't horribly unsafe - just stupid. And poorly built.
First off: the anchor isn't really weighted - they're top-roping off of a snow bulge. Anyone ever sawed a cornice with a rope? Does a Rutschblock cord come to mind? Messed around with a bollard? Ropes cut snow easily. Not fun when you and your belayer are directly under it.
Secondly: Nice rope cordolette. Really, I like it. What I don't like is what you did with it. I've shat nicer figure eights than that. Dressed, with little suits and everything.
Here's the part where I'm trying to follow your logic, I think it went something like this: "I got this rope and its gonna be a totally bomber anchor, breh. I'll just shorten it up here with some shitty knots. Great. Oh now it's not long enough. Ok. I'll just extend it with some slings. I'll use two slings with 'magic Xs' - then its redundant! WOOOOOO!" Except cluttery, and therefore sort of bad.
Sure, it is redundant, and except for the snow block of death, its not that unsafe. But wouldn't it be easier to just tie a double overhand on a bight where you want the master point (at least a super eight) and leave the self-equalizing bullshit out of it?
writtten by Hatemachine.
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